When filming Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia I tried to get as many first ascents as possible. At that time there were a lot of FA's going down and I really wanted to capture that energy. When I missed the FA I tried to get the first ascensionist to repeat the problem for the camera.
I was also anxious to get a lot of good sequences in the can. Unfortunately for many of the bouldering developers I would have them repeat the problems several times and film them from different angles until I thought I had the right sequence.
At the time of filming "When Stars Attack" was the hardest problem in the LOC loop, going at a stiff V7. I think to date it has only been repeated by a hand full of climbers. I've tried it several days out and have not been able to do the right hand cross over. I've watched the crux section a bunch and it seems to be all about turning in the right hip (I'm also sure being tall has a bit to do with it as well).
Here is a re-cut of the problem "When Stars Attack". I'm not sure where Zig got the name but it would make a great title for a reality TV series. Who's willing to go head to head with Britney?!
When Stars Attack***, 13ft, V7, SDS – Starts 6ft right of Bop Gun in the obvious fault line. Follow the fault line up and left to the lip. Much harder than it appears. Description from Greg Campbell's unpublished guidebook.
Music by: Tyrad
Song: Struttin'
http://tryad.org/
Monday, February 4, 2008
"When Stars Attack" V7 - Bouldering in the LOC
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5 comments:
All the good clips on the internet have more slapping, grunting and heavy breathing.
Vanessa thanks for the comment. not sure what kind of sites you been checkin but this blog is rated PG. All kidding aside, there will be lots of that to come.
Dude it has been over a week since the last video. I am jones'n man, hook me up with some more of the good stuff.
this problem is sick! this video got me pumped to see it again! and went out the other day. i did not get the cross that zig does in this video, but i did send with a bump off the small crimp to the good crimp then, right hand into the bad crimp, then matched on the good one! STOKED i dont know if anyone else has sent it this way but it went down pretty easy! might be secret beta!
adam
Strong Work Adam! I've never gootten Stars attack but that beta sounds good. I'm going to give it a real effort this year. Great Send!
Todd
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