Friday, June 27, 2008

Night Sessions cause delay

Many of you may be wondering where this weeks video is? Don't dispair after 25 posts i have not given up, i've just been a bit busy shooting some new material.

About a month ago i started shoot a short film about bouldering at night. With deadlines looming i've had to sacrifice time from my blog to get the project finished, but i feel a bit guilty. I really don't want to disappoint my loyal viewers so here is a little taste of what we have been filming. Night Sessions more coming soon...




Night Sessions Project - Top Six from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

White Trash - V8

What is it about putting up a new problem? Why does being the first seem to bring more glory and pleasure than repeating an established route? It's hard to say exactly what the allure of developing is for me. There is something really fun about approaching a section of rock with no prescribed beta, opening up your mind, believing it can be done and executing the movement. We are fortunate here in Nova Scotia, a climber can have that experience every time they go out.

On a hot summer day after shooting the boulderfest event for Eastern Tide, i took a trip to Dover Island with a small group. I was eying up a new line and throwing myself at it repeatedly. After breaking off some loose holds and getting generally thrashed i elicited the advice of Ghislain Losier. It wasn't long before Nick Sagar joined in and the puzzle pieces started falling into place. Before i knew it i had lost my FA. What a drag! I had lost part to the excitement that comes with the First ascent. The up side of it was that i got to film Nick climbing it and was able to watch it over and over again until each move was ingrained in my head.

I took several trips over that summer before i was able to climb White Trash and when i finally sent, it was glorious, almost like no one had done it before. To this day i still retain some degree of "ownership" on the problem. I always encourage everyone to get on it.

Boulderfest is this weekend and I'm recommending White Trash. I know I'm getting on it again. As a side note, i was at the CNS board meeting and it sounds like there is going to be some great prizes given away this year. Rock Rings, a rope and a crash pad along with a pile of other prizes. There is still time to register and the forecast looks good.


White Trash - V8 from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Duncan's Cove - Broken

It had been a long time since i climbed at Duncan's Cove so it was a lot of fun to get back there. This week around 22 people attended the Monday night bouldering series scheduled for Duncan's Cove. The last time i climbed there was when i sent a project i was working on called "Broken". A few years after that Hurricane Juan blew through and shuffled the Robar Boulder around leaving the "Broken" roof on the ground. This past fall another climb ("Jazzberry Ram") was destroyed by the ocean. While the list of climbs that the ocean has taken away continues to grow a few good problems still exist.

Here are some clips i filmed for Eastern Tide. These climbs never made it in the main film but appeared in the extras. First up is "Broken" and then the very popular "Scoop".


Bouldering Nova Scotia - Duncan's Cove from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

A blogger has needs...

and i needs some climbing.

I actually got outside for the Monday night bouldering series. I know, i should have been hoveled up in the office/grotto but it was such a great day outside and i needed to get climbing. All excuses aside I managed to crank together another video from Dover Island Boulderfest. The Wave is another of those heavily traveled problems on the island. Thankfully the Nova Scotia granite is showing no wear (from climbers anyway).

Less than three weeks to Boulderfest. What's on your to do list?


The Wave from Todd Foster on Vimeo.