What is it about putting up a new problem? Why does being the first seem to bring more glory and pleasure than repeating an established route? It's hard to say exactly what the allure of developing is for me. There is something really fun about approaching a section of rock with no prescribed beta, opening up your mind, believing it can be done and executing the movement. We are fortunate here in Nova Scotia, a climber can have that experience every time they go out.
On a hot summer day after shooting the boulderfest event for Eastern Tide, i took a trip to Dover Island with a small group. I was eying up a new line and throwing myself at it repeatedly. After breaking off some loose holds and getting generally thrashed i elicited the advice of Ghislain Losier. It wasn't long before Nick Sagar joined in and the puzzle pieces started falling into place. Before i knew it i had lost my FA. What a drag! I had lost part to the excitement that comes with the First ascent. The up side of it was that i got to film Nick climbing it and was able to watch it over and over again until each move was ingrained in my head.
I took several trips over that summer before i was able to climb White Trash and when i finally sent, it was glorious, almost like no one had done it before. To this day i still retain some degree of "ownership" on the problem. I always encourage everyone to get on it.
Boulderfest is this weekend and I'm recommending White Trash. I know I'm getting on it again. As a side note, i was at the CNS board meeting and it sounds like there is going to be some great prizes given away this year. Rock Rings, a rope and a crash pad along with a pile of other prizes. There is still time to register and the forecast looks good.
White Trash - V8 from Todd Foster on Vimeo.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
White Trash - V8
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2 comments:
I don't know man, after you are past the roof, you should have made it harder. No feet, only crimps, all left of the arrete. I am not saying I could have got through the roof, but hypothetically, if I did, with a different body than my own, I would have finished differently.
Great site, great blog, Todd!
Peter
For sure peter, the line could be forced a little left so that you just use the arrete and stay out of the dihedral, if you wanted it to be a bit harder and scarier at the finish. When i did it i was just thankful to be past the crux move at the lip.
Thanks for the compliment on the site. It keeps me motivated when i know people are enjoying it.
Todd
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