Night Sessions cause delay

Many of you may be wondering where this weeks video is? Don't dispair after 25 posts i have not given up, i've just been a bit busy shooting some new material.

About a month ago i started shoot a short film about bouldering at night. With deadlines looming i've had to sacrifice time from my blog to get the project finished, but i feel a bit guilty. I really don't want to disappoint my loyal viewers so here is a little taste of what we have been filming. Night Sessions more coming soon...




Night Sessions Project - Top Six from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

White Trash - V8

What is it about putting up a new problem? Why does being the first seem to bring more glory and pleasure than repeating an established route? It's hard to say exactly what the allure of developing is for me. There is something really fun about approaching a section of rock with no prescribed beta, opening up your mind, believing it can be done and executing the movement. We are fortunate here in Nova Scotia, a climber can have that experience every time they go out.

On a hot summer day after shooting the boulderfest event for Eastern Tide, i took a trip to Dover Island with a small group. I was eying up a new line and throwing myself at it repeatedly. After breaking off some loose holds and getting generally thrashed i elicited the advice of Ghislain Losier. It wasn't long before Nick Sagar joined in and the puzzle pieces started falling into place. Before i knew it i had lost my FA. What a drag! I had lost part to the excitement that comes with the First ascent. The up side of it was that i got to film Nick climbing it and was able to watch it over and over again until each move was ingrained in my head.

I took several trips over that summer before i was able to climb White Trash and when i finally sent, it was glorious, almost like no one had done it before. To this day i still retain some degree of "ownership" on the problem. I always encourage everyone to get on it.

Boulderfest is this weekend and I'm recommending White Trash. I know I'm getting on it again. As a side note, i was at the CNS board meeting and it sounds like there is going to be some great prizes given away this year. Rock Rings, a rope and a crash pad along with a pile of other prizes. There is still time to register and the forecast looks good.


White Trash - V8 from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Duncan's Cove - Broken

It had been a long time since i climbed at Duncan's Cove so it was a lot of fun to get back there. This week around 22 people attended the Monday night bouldering series scheduled for Duncan's Cove. The last time i climbed there was when i sent a project i was working on called "Broken". A few years after that Hurricane Juan blew through and shuffled the Robar Boulder around leaving the "Broken" roof on the ground. This past fall another climb ("Jazzberry Ram") was destroyed by the ocean. While the list of climbs that the ocean has taken away continues to grow a few good problems still exist.

Here are some clips i filmed for Eastern Tide. These climbs never made it in the main film but appeared in the extras. First up is "Broken" and then the very popular "Scoop".


Bouldering Nova Scotia - Duncan's Cove from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

A blogger has needs...

and i needs some climbing.

I actually got outside for the Monday night bouldering series. I know, i should have been hoveled up in the office/grotto but it was such a great day outside and i needed to get climbing. All excuses aside I managed to crank together another video from Dover Island Boulderfest. The Wave is another of those heavily traveled problems on the island. Thankfully the Nova Scotia granite is showing no wear (from climbers anyway).

Less than three weeks to Boulderfest. What's on your to do list?


The Wave from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

The Bear, three stars all the way!

The Bear is probably one of the most traveled bouldering problems in Nova Scotia and for good reason. This was one of the first problems we ever did on the island. It's just so obvious. Start on two small crimps, right hand phat pinch, left into the small dish, up to the jug with the right and and over you go. Classic! It's also one of the only problems on Dover Island that benefited from the the big island shuffle during tropical storm Noel. It now has a nice little sit start. Unfortunately it meant that the extension (Polar Bear) has a small pile of rubble blocking it.

I filmed this clip of the Bear during Boulderfest. I had set my sites on getting complete problems and wanted to capture the process of working them as well. Amber was working on the Bear for the better part of the morning. She had done all the moves but just could not put it together for the camera and eventually had to call it quits. It was really hard to not get frustrated for me, so i can only imagine how Amber felt. One of the most challenging parts of shooting is not interfering, not adding to that existing pressure when a climber really wants a problem. Fortunately Jonathan Graham was climbing in the area and agreed to run a few laps for the camera. John even added a little lightness to the moment by screwing up the top out.

On day two of Boulderfest Amber went back to the Bear and sent it, unfortunately i wasn't there for it. Here is the clip of Amber working the Bear followed by the clip from Eastern Tide.


Bouldefest - The Bear from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Music by: Brad Sucks
www.bradsucks.net

I Heel Good - V7

It was during the second annual Climb Nova Scotia Boulder Fest that i filmed this clip. It was mid afternoon and i was not having much luck. There were lots of people climbing but it seemed when ever the camera was rolling the climbers were not getting the sends. I had spent most of the morning filming Amber Geerdink attempting the "Bear". She had done all the moves but just couldn't piece it together, so i moved on. I was shooting around "The Wave" when Jonathan Graham came running around the corner with a huge grin on his face. He had just done a new problem and offered to repeat it for the camera. With the help of Jonathan and my two extra camera operators (Ghislain Losier, and Chris Murphy) we were able to get some quality footage of this Dover Island classic. That moment turned everything around, it seemed that everyone was ready for the send train.

The ruminants of hurricane Noel blew through the Maritimes last fall and it would seem that "I Heel Good "would not escape it's wrath. I've been told that the under-cling at the lip that Jonathan matches on has broken a bit. How much i'm not sure. There wasn't much in the way of holds on it before so it's hard to imagine how waves could have changed it.

I'm planning a trip to Dover soon to sum up the damage for myself. I'll have the Dover Island mini-guide written by Sean Therien in hand to compare with. Until then get your psyche on Boulderfest is coming...

Bouldering Nova Scotia - I Heel Good from Todd Foster on Vimeo.
Music by: Sean Cassidy

Dover Island - Orangutan

In September of 2003 hurricane Juan came ashore in Halifax and pounded the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. It left devastation in it's wake by taking many huge boulders and classic problems. Dover Island took the brunt of the force. The Fish Mouth boulder was picked up and smashed in half in the bottom of a gully. Orangutan was also scarred by loosing a really nice incut at the lip. The problem still goes but it sure has changed how we looked at the island and the power of the ocean.


This past fall we were surprised again by the raw power and unpredictability of the Atlantic ocean. Dover Island and much of the coast around Halifax was assaulted and changed due to the remnants of Hurricane Noel. Orangutan again took the hits loosing another small crimper on the right lip. Apparently it still goes but people seem reluctant to change the grade from V4. Several other boulders were effected during the storm. In today clip you can see the "One Scoop" boulder looming in the background, it was also displaced during the fall storms of 2007.





(I'm not sure witch hold is gone from this picture, comments any one?)








Boulderfest is coming up again this year and i encourage anyone who hasn't done this three star Dover Island classic to get out there and get it done. Orangutan may not be there after this fall!

Here is a re-cut of Orangutan (with lots of extra footage) from Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia.


Bouldering Nova Scotia - Orangutan from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Music By: hisboyelroy
Song: Revolve
http://www.hisboyelroymusic.com

Another taste of Porcupine.

After posting the first video of Porcupine Fortress i got a tone of comments. I had apparently inspired a lot of people to check the place out. I heard of two separate groups that visited there within a week. Some were expecting it to be a good place to take beginners but this spot is probably better suited to climbers with a little more experience. If you climb in the V4 range there's plenty to do.

Both groups said that although they could see the fortress from the road they got a little lost going in but once they got there they had a great time. Jeremy Benjamin wrote a report on the Climb Eastern Canada message board...

I made it out to PF with a crew of peeps this past Sunday. It was a beautiful day. We were all first timers to the area, and a good time was had by all.

Some things we would like to share with anyone headed out there... We got a little lost following the directions in the Bouldering guide book. From the 103 the book says to take exit 6, then a left at the T-junction towards Hubbards and then a right towards North West Cove. These directions take for granted that you turn left at the intersection at the end of exit 6, so we would stress that after taking exit 6 it is left, left, right. Not just Left, right. Once we figured out our mistake and got to Coleman’s Cove Rd to park we easily found the rocks in the ditch to cross into the woods. Before you cross the ditch into the woods you can look across the lake and see the big wall at the bottom of which are the boulders. So that is where you are headed. The hike is not too long but also does not resemble the "wide and well marked trail" described in the book. The woods are sparse and there seems to be trails going in all directions. So it was easy hiking, but hard to know which way to go. As far as we could tell there is no arrow on the other side of the stream, but we may have been in the wrong spot on the stream when we crossed it. We also did not encounter the windfall that you have to go under, but we did happen upon the hunting blind. Once you find that, you really are almost there and the landmarks of the lake and the wall that you have to be between are pretty easy to find.

The super classic problems that we loved...

The Quill V0 has no *'s in the guide book but deserves all three*** in my opinion. 16 feet high at the top out, I think it gives Orgasmatron some stiff competition for the coolest V0 around. Super cool.

Anchor Chain and Confidence both V4***, and both on the Battleship boulder. Two very different styles of problem both saw ascents, and put smiles on many faces. I think Confidence was my favourite of the 2 but they were both rad.

I hope this clip gets people stoked to get out before the window closes on this area for the spring. Fear the bugs!


Bouldering Nova Scotia - Porcupine Fortress from Todd Foster on Vimeo.


Music by: Screw-Jay http://www.screw-jay.com/,
Brad Sucks http://www.bradsucks.net/

Bawl Higher

If you are into highball slabbin this problem is for you. Bawl Higher is an inviting little problem . At first glance there appears to be holds all the way up and doesn't look that hard until you step off the block and onto the face where you encounter a typical Nova Scotia slab. It would not be so intimidating if it just stayed straight up but this little gem weaves back and forth over the starting block making each move more committing. A fall from this one will definitely leave you crying.

Bawl Higher***, 20ft, V5, BL – Located on the backside of this boulder. Start on the block four feet right of the arête. Climb up using small holds to a difficult sequence at the top (there is a jug up there)! Have good spotters and a big set of kahunas!
excerpt from Greg Campbell's unpublished guide book.

Bouldering Nova Scotia - Bawl Higher V5 from Todd Foster on Vimeo.
Music by: Scoop

There is no video in this post today but i though i should share it anyway. I got an email from the French climbing magazine Escalade. Somehow they have stumbled upon the Nova Scotia Bouldering scene and Pull Down Productions. Here is the email i received.

Hello,

Just to announce you that we've talken about your movies and boulder near Halifax.
You can see it here
http://www.escalademag.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=888&It

Well done...Your trailer makes me want to go to boulder in your country!!
Best regards

Philippe Mathieu

My French is quite poor but i still had a good time looking around their site. According to my unofficial translator Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia and this blog were part of their weekly features. Check out Escalademag.com.