A blogger has needs...

and i needs some climbing.

I actually got outside for the Monday night bouldering series. I know, i should have been hoveled up in the office/grotto but it was such a great day outside and i needed to get climbing. All excuses aside I managed to crank together another video from Dover Island Boulderfest. The Wave is another of those heavily traveled problems on the island. Thankfully the Nova Scotia granite is showing no wear (from climbers anyway).

Less than three weeks to Boulderfest. What's on your to do list?


The Wave from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

The Bear, three stars all the way!

The Bear is probably one of the most traveled bouldering problems in Nova Scotia and for good reason. This was one of the first problems we ever did on the island. It's just so obvious. Start on two small crimps, right hand phat pinch, left into the small dish, up to the jug with the right and and over you go. Classic! It's also one of the only problems on Dover Island that benefited from the the big island shuffle during tropical storm Noel. It now has a nice little sit start. Unfortunately it meant that the extension (Polar Bear) has a small pile of rubble blocking it.

I filmed this clip of the Bear during Boulderfest. I had set my sites on getting complete problems and wanted to capture the process of working them as well. Amber was working on the Bear for the better part of the morning. She had done all the moves but just could not put it together for the camera and eventually had to call it quits. It was really hard to not get frustrated for me, so i can only imagine how Amber felt. One of the most challenging parts of shooting is not interfering, not adding to that existing pressure when a climber really wants a problem. Fortunately Jonathan Graham was climbing in the area and agreed to run a few laps for the camera. John even added a little lightness to the moment by screwing up the top out.

On day two of Boulderfest Amber went back to the Bear and sent it, unfortunately i wasn't there for it. Here is the clip of Amber working the Bear followed by the clip from Eastern Tide.


Bouldefest - The Bear from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Music by: Brad Sucks
www.bradsucks.net

I Heel Good - V7

It was during the second annual Climb Nova Scotia Boulder Fest that i filmed this clip. It was mid afternoon and i was not having much luck. There were lots of people climbing but it seemed when ever the camera was rolling the climbers were not getting the sends. I had spent most of the morning filming Amber Geerdink attempting the "Bear". She had done all the moves but just couldn't piece it together, so i moved on. I was shooting around "The Wave" when Jonathan Graham came running around the corner with a huge grin on his face. He had just done a new problem and offered to repeat it for the camera. With the help of Jonathan and my two extra camera operators (Ghislain Losier, and Chris Murphy) we were able to get some quality footage of this Dover Island classic. That moment turned everything around, it seemed that everyone was ready for the send train.

The ruminants of hurricane Noel blew through the Maritimes last fall and it would seem that "I Heel Good "would not escape it's wrath. I've been told that the under-cling at the lip that Jonathan matches on has broken a bit. How much i'm not sure. There wasn't much in the way of holds on it before so it's hard to imagine how waves could have changed it.

I'm planning a trip to Dover soon to sum up the damage for myself. I'll have the Dover Island mini-guide written by Sean Therien in hand to compare with. Until then get your psyche on Boulderfest is coming...

Bouldering Nova Scotia - I Heel Good from Todd Foster on Vimeo.
Music by: Sean Cassidy

Dover Island - Orangutan

In September of 2003 hurricane Juan came ashore in Halifax and pounded the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. It left devastation in it's wake by taking many huge boulders and classic problems. Dover Island took the brunt of the force. The Fish Mouth boulder was picked up and smashed in half in the bottom of a gully. Orangutan was also scarred by loosing a really nice incut at the lip. The problem still goes but it sure has changed how we looked at the island and the power of the ocean.


This past fall we were surprised again by the raw power and unpredictability of the Atlantic ocean. Dover Island and much of the coast around Halifax was assaulted and changed due to the remnants of Hurricane Noel. Orangutan again took the hits loosing another small crimper on the right lip. Apparently it still goes but people seem reluctant to change the grade from V4. Several other boulders were effected during the storm. In today clip you can see the "One Scoop" boulder looming in the background, it was also displaced during the fall storms of 2007.





(I'm not sure witch hold is gone from this picture, comments any one?)








Boulderfest is coming up again this year and i encourage anyone who hasn't done this three star Dover Island classic to get out there and get it done. Orangutan may not be there after this fall!

Here is a re-cut of Orangutan (with lots of extra footage) from Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia.


Bouldering Nova Scotia - Orangutan from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Music By: hisboyelroy
Song: Revolve
http://www.hisboyelroymusic.com